WAYNESBORO! WAYNESBORO! PARTY TIME! EXCELLENT!

lHi y'all. Here in Waynesboro, Virginia - mile 850 and probably the largest town we've stopped in yet. The place is one of the friendliest of trail towns too, with a YMCA that graciously allows us to use their facilities and camp nearby. Yesterday, I managed to do the last 14 miles into town by 1:30 yesterday, hitch a ride, get a caloric injection at Arby's, catch a EuroCup match at a local restaurant, set up camp, and go for a swim at the Y. Also got to hang out with college pal Spencer Payne last night, who lives in nearby Charlottesville, and get dinner at Applebees. Those who know me well can see that I've had to completely drop my ban on chain restaurants and stores for this trip. A couple of other hikers - Snap, Snack, and Orion - had adventures on transit today as we took a bus to a mall to catch the Indiana Jones movie then use the bus to get to an outfitters for fuel. It was nice to sit in air conditioning and forget all about the trail for a few hours, though I can't really recommend the movie. We are stopping by the library and Pizza Hut on the way out of town tonight, hoping to do a few miles of night hiking. What's really exciting about Waynesboro is that we are 3/4 done with Virginia, and are entering Shenandoah National Park right after town. Throughout the earlier states, every hiker gleefully passed around rumors about how "easy" Virginia is and how fast we'd be going. I can tell you now that Virginia is NOT easy or fast, and the last week has seen some big 2000 and 3000 foot climbs almost daily. The biggest of these was 3 days ago, when I climbed Bald Mtn into a thunderstorm, with rain pouring down my back and into my shoes, making them nice little bathtubs. However, after looking at the maps, it seems that Shenandoah NP really is less challenging, and will kick-off a faster paced hike through the Mid-Atlantic. Can't wait. Let's hope so, because Elizabeth is meeting me on Friday afternoon, 46 miles from here in Elkton, VA, and I will have to pound out the miles to get there in time. We'll be staying in Elkton the first night and at the Big Meadows Lodge in the Park on Saturday, where I will take her for an 8-mile hike to give her a taste of the AT. At least I can say the heat has abated and the temps are back in the high 70s up on the ridge - perfect for walking. There's been lots of great swimming places lately too, including the James and Tye Rivers, and a 30' waterfall on a steep blue-blaze trail. These places aren't just fun, they're necessary since this part of the world is low on rain - Waynesboro's received 10 or 11 inches as of today and are usually at 22 inches by this time in the year. Water sources are low and sometimes not flowing at all, meaning we have to carry extra and walk further with it. The real excitement is that we are nearing the end of Virginia after more than a month here. Harper's Ferry, WV is a week and a half or so away and is the mental halfway point of the entire trail. Harpers Ferry is one of those places that seemed impossible to reach not so long ago, and its proximity is amazing. Everyone is excited after a long time out here watching the miles, and some of our fellow hikers, disappear. One other thing I should mention: with the heat has come the smells. Sweating into my pack, my sleeping pad and bag, and my clothes has made them stink like all hell. Even my tent stinks. I've taken to using incense for the tent, and am now dabbing myself and my sleeping pad with patchouli oil. I'm finally a hippy!