DAVENPORT GAP - SMOKIES ARE OVER

Hi all - this will have to be real quick since i've stopped only briefly at a hostel with a bad bad wireless connection. The Smokies were really amazing - by far the most beautiful part of the Trail so far. Followed the ridgeline for 80 miles, most of which is above 5000ft - we had some cold nights around 30 degrees for most of the week, and some rain early on, but the last three days were magnificent with 60 degree highs and sunshine all day. The trails are beautifully maintained and often sloped nicely for horses. On the ridges it often runs on 6ft wide knife edges with 1000ft drops on either side, and views abound. The forest up top is unique in the south - all spruce and balsam conifers that remind you of New England, but very very wet - an island remnant of the type of forest that covered this area during the last ice age. Plus, tons of moss. The peaks here get something like 90 inches of rain a year - consider that Philly gets about 45in. And since nothings been logged since the 1930s when the Park was created, the trees are big and the forest floor is covered with fallen logs, thick soil, moss, and wildflowers.

Hit lots of milestones - tallest peak on the AT at 6670ft, the 10% mark two days ago (217.6 mi), longest stretch of roadless area until Maine, and my personal longest day at 14.8 miles (its typically 11-13 miles each day right now). I'm at mile 238 right now, but am pushing on to reach Hot Springs, NC by Saturday afternoon- theres a festival that day. Plus hot springs.

Just took a shower, first in 6 days, which felt great. Plus the food bag is down to 2 days, which is so much nicer. Walked into spring as i came down from the high peaks - the trees are all leafing and there are huge patches of wildflowers everywhere. Unfortunately, the only wildlife I saw in the Park were rabbits who watched me during a midnight pee. Pervs. Oh and shelter mice abound - i've mostly tented thus far, but the Park Service requires you to stay in shelters if there is room in the Park. Did get my photo taken by tourists at Newfound Gap where a major road cuts through - they were from Nebraska and thought it insane to do this hike. Must say that the group of us dirty beaten homeless looking hikers standing there do not look exactly sane. In fact, I think the hiking poles are the only thing separating us from your average hobo.

The body is starting to harden with three weeks of hiking, and it actually feels like I could make it the whole way - though kinda depressing when I saw the NPS Strip map hanging here at the hostel. Three weeks of hard hiking, sun and rain, ups and downs, miles upon miles, and i've gone like 2 inches! My feet are aching whenever i start up from a long break, but generally feel good after 15 minutes of walking. Some pains in the right knee and elbow (from using poles) came and went during the Smokies. Looking forward to a full day off in Hot Springs.

Once I get to Hot Springs i will be able to write more. Plus i will send home my first camera card so Elizabeth can post some pics of Georgia and early North Carolina. Thinking of you all...