THEN THERE WERE TWO

I've made it to Hanover, just across the Connecticut River into New Hampshire. What a pretty town too, with lots of restaurants and outdoor seating and Dartmouth's beautiful campus right in the center. Its no wonder there's 50 or more hikers here right now, taking time off, resting up, collecting themselves before heading into the toughest sections of the trail. Collecting winter gear too. Almost everyone receives some additional gear in Hanover or nearby. And the new weight can be frustrating to bodies grown used to the low-weight summer packs. I've doubled the amount of clothes, and with the full food bag, I may very well be back up to 42lbs. And I haven't added my winter sleeping bag yet either. Yay! I am taking at least one full zero here for rest, fun, and to see my Grandpa and Aunt Sharon who graciously drove 2 hours just to take me out to lunch. And just like the other times I've met up with family and friends, I was reminded of how freakish my facial hair has become. I really am sporting one of the more impressively large beards out here! I am here with The Thinker and Zen, who are lounging at a cabin in Vermont right now before I join them this afternoon. We are probably leaving tomorrow at some point - don't want to stay too long and get too stuck in the town vortex, as some hikers find themselves. But we also want to let most of this group get out in front of us - it will be no fun to fight for spaces in the huts of the Whites later this week. Hopefully we can also slow down enough to let Labor Day crowds have their time on the big peaks before we come through. The White Mountains aren't a National Park, but they get more visitors than almost every true National Park. The Appalachian Mountain Club, an organization that's been around far longer than the AT has maintained trails and campsites in the White Mountains for over a century. They are probably most famous for running the series of "huts" in the high peaks - eight or so lodges that offer bunk accomodations and meals for guests. The only problem with thru-hikers is the price, which are somewhere around $90/night - way too high for a thruer's budget. So, most either skip the huts (hard to do in some sections) or try and do work-for-stay at them. AMC also charges for backcountry camping spots and shelters in some locations, another bone of contention with thruers who generally stay for free where ever we can. All the charges and rules and such are aimed at protecting the natural resources, but have the effect of "gentrifying" the trail as it goes through the Whites. The southbounders I've met said we will definitely feel like second class citizens. So, should be an interesting experience. The weather report looks great, and hopefully remains that way!