Heading out of Tennessee... for good!

Shawn is heading out of the Kincora Hiking Hostel in Hampton, TN, this morning, and on his way to Damascus, Virginia, for Trail Days. He arrived at the hostel Saturday afternoon, caught a ride into town for dinner, then settled in for a Sunday off. Yesterday was spent resting, chatting, and playing Risk (which I can't believe he'd never played before this). He is right on track with the schedule he set out for himself - he'll actually have to hike at a pretty slow pace in order to not make it into Damascus too early! The hikers have figured out that they passed the 410 mile mark this last week, and by the time we talk again, he'll be done with three states - GA, NC, and TN. I'll let you all know when he gets to Virginia!

Photos Added!

I have created a flickr page for Shawn's photos from the trail... to access the page, click on the link on the right side, below our photo. I have been informed that the photos are largely from North Carolina, with a sprinking of Georgia and Tennessee. And, for some reason, they ended up backwards in the upload, so if you want to experience the trail the "right" way, start at the end and work backwards.... Enjoy!

ZERO DAY?

Still resting here in Erwin, so I have a moment to write some more. I will either leave late this afternoon to get to a shelter 4 miles from here or tent it overnight here and take off in the morning. The latter is looking more likely, since the crew I've been hanging with is spending the night and a whole bunch of others left today meaning it will be crowded ahead. Plus, I don't want to be too early to Damascus, VA - 120 mi from here - for Trail Days, which starts on the 16th. But feeling really good and ready to hike.

I try to do a strenuous day within each section, just to push the envelope. This past section's strenuous day was the 15.5 miles I did before 3pm to get a lousy hamburger and catch some friends who were a half day ahead. Can't tell you how exhausted I was that day, since it was hot and sunny all day and I didn't stop for a proper break or real meal - ate candy bars and quick snacks instead. But its amazing how the endorphines kick in and that night I was feeling great without any pains.

During the section before Hot Springs, our group rose at 4am and tried to make it 6 miles to the top of a big bald called Max Patch for sunrise. We were waylaid in a small gap when we found a van parked there and an orange University of Tennessee tent set up. The guy sleeping inside the van (it was maybe 6am) woke up and rubbed his eyes and told us to wait a half hour and he'd cook us breakfast. Seven of us had three dozen eggs between us. The cook's name is Ox, he thru-hiked a few years back, and says it changed his life. He comes every year to that gap to cook for the hikers coming through. That's the beauty of trail magic. Can't wait til I can run up to some shelter in Pennsylvania some day with a pizza and sixpack.

This upcoming section will see trail magic at an old barn that's been made into a shelter. Some Appalachian State students came by the hostel this morning with a flyer saying they'd be there with beer and food on Thursday, after their exams are over. That shelter is only 3 days away, so its another reason to lounge here today. Should be a good time.

A large group of us has been bunched up since the Smokies because of the festivals and pre-announced trail magic. This will probably stay that way until Damascus for the biggest festival, Trail Days, which supposedly attracts thousands of hikers. Supposedly, Damascus is the last stop for many hikers, who never make it past. Damascus starts the 500 mile trek through the long green tunnel. Personally, I'm looking forward to it, since its getting a little crowded and the hostels are becoming a bit of a party scene.

IN ERWIN, TENNESSEE

Hi gang, I've made it to Erwin, TN, mile 339. Funny story about Erwin - three weeks before starting the Trail, i found trailjournals.com where hikers keep online diaries, and followed the progress of this one kid Dynamite (looks like Napolean Dynamite) who had started in early March. When Elizabeth and I drove down here over a month ago, we stopped in Erwin for gas and to check the town out. Drove by where the Trail comes out of the woods and who should pop out of the woods just at that moment but Dynamite! So I yelled out the car window at him "Dynamite! I know you, been following you on the internet!" He was a little freaked out, and declined my offer of a ride to town...

So, 33 days later, here I am. Am staying in the bunkhouse at a neat hostel called Uncle Johnny's. Perfect day to be here too, since it just started raining about an hour before I arrived. Should be clear when I leave tomorrow or the next day. I may try river rafting here tomorrow if the weather is nice and the prices are decent. As soon as I arrived, I caught Johnny's ride to town to the all-you-can-eat pizza buffet, which proved to be nice timing. Also got a Tennessee keychain for the pack as this is my only town stop in the state.

Had great weather this past section - the two days I spent in Hot Springs allowed me to miss the freezing rain last Monday night, and its been warm since. Some of my hiker buddies were out here that night and said there was sheet ice inside and outside their tents. C-Bass and I tried to catch up to our buddies, and I managed to do it on the third day, but it meant pulling long miles. Had my personal record of 17.4 miles on Thursday - 15.5 of those miles were done before 3pm so I could make it to a gap where a group of locals were cooking hamburgers until that time. Caught Slo-Goin and Franklin that day too, so added bonus.

The trail went over a series of balds in this section, and i got to cowboy camp (sans tent) on top of one - nothing like waking up in the middle of the night to see stars from bed. Also hung out on top of Big Bald for 4 hours yesterday afternoon to catch some sun and enjoy lunch. Amazing views of the upcoming Roan Mtn Highlands which I will hit this next week. Today, on the 12 mile trek to the hostel, I walked through a small forest fire!

As for my feet, I've come to think its a reinjuring of a sprain I had in high school. I've kept the ankle wrapped in ace bandages and its been slowly healing - still some soreness, but definitely better than last weekend. Its one of those things where I'm going to keep going and it will either get better or worse, we shall see. But I anticipate no problems leaving here on time.

BTW - Mom, you can keep sending cookies - they are easy to finish off at stops so I don't carry them. When I was saying send food to Elizabeth for parceling, I was referring more to folks who want to send trail mix or dried fruit and such. But thank you all, its been really delicious!

Ok, will write more later...

Photos from the Trail!

I received a package from Shawn today, with his old sleeping bag, a shirt, and a few other things he didn't need anymore... but most importantly, there was a camera card as well! Here are a few photos from the trail, so you can see our thru-hiker in action and see some of what he's seeing - at least the portion between Georgia and Tennessee! The first photo is of him at the southern terminus of the AT, at the top of Springer Mountain. I have more, and as soon as I can upload them to flickr, you can see them all...

10% Done

Got to talk briefly with Shawn a few moments ago – he asked me to pass on some info for our friend Chris: he hiked under the US40 overpass and thought you'd appreciate knowing that bit of trail/transit trivia. And, as bonus info, but in the "gross information" category - although he did get to shower for the first time in 6 days, he did not get to do laundry, so he put back on the clothes he had been hiking in, and set out again (ick). That part sounds completely unappealing to me (and the rest of the folks here in our office), but Shawn really seems to be enjoying himself!!

The group he's currently hiking with is not staying overnight at the hostel this evening, but instead is pushing on towards Hot Springs, where a festival and hot springs relaxation await. When he gets there, there will be a better phone connection and internet service, as well as more time to chat… which I, for one, am looking forward to!!

DAVENPORT GAP - SMOKIES ARE OVER

Hi all - this will have to be real quick since i've stopped only briefly at a hostel with a bad bad wireless connection. The Smokies were really amazing - by far the most beautiful part of the Trail so far. Followed the ridgeline for 80 miles, most of which is above 5000ft - we had some cold nights around 30 degrees for most of the week, and some rain early on, but the last three days were magnificent with 60 degree highs and sunshine all day. The trails are beautifully maintained and often sloped nicely for horses. On the ridges it often runs on 6ft wide knife edges with 1000ft drops on either side, and views abound. The forest up top is unique in the south - all spruce and balsam conifers that remind you of New England, but very very wet - an island remnant of the type of forest that covered this area during the last ice age. Plus, tons of moss. The peaks here get something like 90 inches of rain a year - consider that Philly gets about 45in. And since nothings been logged since the 1930s when the Park was created, the trees are big and the forest floor is covered with fallen logs, thick soil, moss, and wildflowers.

Hit lots of milestones - tallest peak on the AT at 6670ft, the 10% mark two days ago (217.6 mi), longest stretch of roadless area until Maine, and my personal longest day at 14.8 miles (its typically 11-13 miles each day right now). I'm at mile 238 right now, but am pushing on to reach Hot Springs, NC by Saturday afternoon- theres a festival that day. Plus hot springs.

Just took a shower, first in 6 days, which felt great. Plus the food bag is down to 2 days, which is so much nicer. Walked into spring as i came down from the high peaks - the trees are all leafing and there are huge patches of wildflowers everywhere. Unfortunately, the only wildlife I saw in the Park were rabbits who watched me during a midnight pee. Pervs. Oh and shelter mice abound - i've mostly tented thus far, but the Park Service requires you to stay in shelters if there is room in the Park. Did get my photo taken by tourists at Newfound Gap where a major road cuts through - they were from Nebraska and thought it insane to do this hike. Must say that the group of us dirty beaten homeless looking hikers standing there do not look exactly sane. In fact, I think the hiking poles are the only thing separating us from your average hobo.

The body is starting to harden with three weeks of hiking, and it actually feels like I could make it the whole way - though kinda depressing when I saw the NPS Strip map hanging here at the hostel. Three weeks of hard hiking, sun and rain, ups and downs, miles upon miles, and i've gone like 2 inches! My feet are aching whenever i start up from a long break, but generally feel good after 15 minutes of walking. Some pains in the right knee and elbow (from using poles) came and went during the Smokies. Looking forward to a full day off in Hot Springs.

Once I get to Hot Springs i will be able to write more. Plus i will send home my first camera card so Elizabeth can post some pics of Georgia and early North Carolina. Thinking of you all...