ABOUT TO ENTER THE SMOKIES

Hi everyone - a quick hello since the slow-moving computer here at Fontana Village finally became available. I'm in Fontana, NC, a town built to house TVA dam builders in the 1940s who were building the nearby Fontana Dam, which is the tallest dam in the East, and the gateway to Smoky Mountains National Park. My buddy Y2K and I will be entering the Smokies today, hoping to do the 11 mile uphill slog that will put us on the crestline. The weather is beautiful, highs in the upper 70s and perfectly sunny - hopefully it will hold for most of the next week, since the Smokies are notorious for bad weather. It snowed 6 inches there 3 days ago, but its since melted. These will be the highest peaks on the AT - Clingman's Dome is almost 6800 feet high - a full 600 feet taller than Mt. Washinton in NH. The rumor is that once on top of the ridgeline the trail is relatively easy, with few major gaps to climb in an out of. This will be a nice break from the punishing North Carolina Trail so far, with its almost twice daily 1200ft down, 1200ft up gaps. I did spend the night on 5500ft Standing Indian Mtn a week ago, with perfectly clear skies and endless stars. Great sunset and sunrise - thanks to Suzanna for her star book. Thanks also to everyone who has sent stuff - Bridget Keegan's postcard, Gavin's map and mix, Mom's cookies, Aunt Sharon's card, Grandpa's card, and of course Elizabeth's meals and notes. They've been very inspiring, particularly on the long 3000ft climb out of Wesser, NC a few days back.

I stayed here in Fontana Village at a real hotel, having enough of the snoring (I reckon 50% of the hikers snore terribly. You should meet the guy named "Rolling Thunder") and the foul bunkhouse at my last stop with its B.O. smelling mattress. I ended up sleeping on the porch. So it was nice to get a real bed and pillows and linens for a change, plus an indoor pool, and restaurant and bar nearby. Now, i'm packed up with a ridiculous amount of food, enough to get through the 6-7 days of the Smokies, since there's no close town once you're in the park. This will be the longest section without stopping until Maine, and the pack is fully loaded, probably weighing something around 45lbs. I've sent some items home, but its never as much as you'd like to send.

As someone told me last week, the AT is the most fun you'll ever have, interrupted by long walks. This is very true - the characters out here are truly interesting people, and its great fun to gather at the shelters to cook and socialize each night. The actual hiking bonds people closely, since we're all going through the same thing. I'm making great friends and having a great time so far. I've met a number of people who do long-distance hikes every year - they work during the winter to make enough money to take off for a few months each summer. It's very addictive, I agree, but not sure if Elizabeth will let me run off again and again like this....

Ok, i'm off. There's a hostel right after the Smokies with internet I hear, so I will try and stop there to post more. Until then, here's hoping the bears, freezing temps, snakes, lightning, falls, and exhausting labor don't get me....